Today, we explore Tokyo on a bar crawl, er, stroll, down upscale Aoyama Dori, and also a throwback to late 20th century NYC.
Tokyo, Japan
Based on the fact that I can speak some Japanese albeit clumsy and Borat-esque , I am not required to concentrate my choice of drinking spots to Roppongi (expat center). The "foreigners" that descend on Roppongi is a mercurial mix of young servicemen on leave, animation loving nerds, flight crews on layovers, and Joe Middle-America business traveler in casual mode (this is the same guy I see in every airport in the world - balding, overweight, untrendy jeans purchased in 1998, company golf shirt, white sneakers). Also I've seen one or two 'foreigners' thinking they are all hard core hip-hop, in fact, if they took that act to Brooklyn they'd be laughed at (or beaten) silly. To be honest, I try to avoid Roppongi and its legion of gaijin knuckleheads like the plague.
Tokyo has so many bars with a great variety beyond that small section of town. To get a flavor of an upscale tranche of Tokyo's bars, I head down Aoyama Dori (one of the few roads in Tokyo that actually has a name) which is a stretch that goes from Shibuya 渋谷 to Omotesando 表参道 and has some very chill places to imbibe. Starting at Shibuya heading towards Omotesando these are some of the bars that are notable when looking for an uptick in drinking experience compared to gaijin gorged Roppongi or the businessmen ビジネスマン flooded izakayas that ring the train stations:
Cozmo's
When I first entered Cozmo's for the first time I felt I had just dropped in to a basement party from my high school days. Plush couches and sofas, wood (faux wood?) paneling, cocktail table, a painting of Bob Marley, and a duo of DJs working on some turntables. But I truly was in Tokyo in a bar with a tight-knit crowd. To start, I couldn't figure who worked at the bar and who was a patron, and that I felt was a good thing as it seemed everyone in the bar even though had come in separately had mad some connection with each other. Cozmo's does have DJs provide the crowd something interesting to listen to but entertainment isn't just limited to them. In subsequent visits to the bar the entertainment has ranged from a blues duo supported by a DJs samples to a Bjork-esque shriek singer to a reggae show complete with a DJ, MCs and a dance hall style dancer - good stuff. The entertainment and draft beers adds to what already would be a cool place.
Quons
Bar has a cool vibe to it that you see when you go up a flight of stairs and enter the bar. Had the movie "Syd and Nancy" projected on the wall with chill lounge tunes being piped in. The cocktail menu could hold its own at mixology bars in NY or London. Been able to get a version of a Dark & Stormy here. But the real draw of Quons is the roofdeck terrace -- so its up another flight of stairs to an area that sometimes fills up early -- the terrace has a Singapore/South Pacific feel with its rattan furniture and tropical plants. You are provided a 'buzzer' to summon a waiter from the bar level to take your order and then retreat back downstairs to have the ordered filled and then bring your drinks back up to you. Although, the Japanese pride themselves on service, after the 2nd round I felt a bit like Mike Ditka in pre-season training camp during a stadium stairs drill. So after ordering the next round I went down to pick up my own drink and ended up chumming it up with the friendly bartenders and wait-staff. The roof deck is definitely a cool place to be in the spring and summer and even in the fall/winter the terrace is kept open as an awning and heaters are brought in.
Bar Den Inmu
Across the street from Quons and down in the basement is Bar Den Inmu.... "Den" is the operative word as the place looks like someone's den...but that 'someone' is likely Burt Reynolds' circa 1977. Shag carpet, purple lights, disco ball, chandeliers....well crafted cocktails can be ordered at the bar but its obvious that the bartenders rarely have someone actually sit at the bar and strike up a conversation. As most (all) people in the den are in variety of Den/lounge seating - earlier in the evening there are mostly hushed tones but as cocktails shed inhibitions a semi-sense of raucousness reigns. I ended up in this place a few years ago after seeing a hip-hop band at Shibuya Ax and meeting some "hip-hop" dudes...not sure why this place was chosen but ended up being some fun especially after Jaegermeister shots were downed.
Nos - Aoyama
After leaving the Den, you'll head across the Aoyama Dori to Nos - Aoyama. Getting across the avenue is not as simple as just walking across as you may do in many cities like NY where you can suspend traffic laws and cut across without need of a green light or a cross walk, in Tokyo, it will be a bit rude to do so... but Nos _ Aoyama is close enough even going a slightly circuitous route. Nos is a 4 level bar that has a bar area as well as many sitting areas and closed off rooms. I got in here one night and hadn't realized due to my clumsy Japanese that the bar was closing and mistakenly believed that I was asked to come in when I was being told the bar was closed. Instead of ushering me out, the waiter showed me to the bar but did say that I could only have a single drink. Again like at Quons and the Den...had a nice strong cocktail and by this time I did realize that the place was actually closing - I finished up my drink quickly and apologized and did return at an earlier hour at a different date. Some bars in Tokyo like some pubs in the UK are owned by a beverage company this one I believe is the same. As I ran into the same guy that let me in that night as the matre d' at restaurant/lounge in Ginza. He remembered me and in fine tradition of strong customder service also what I drank to the surprise of my work colleagues - wondering how the hell I knew this guy.
Two Rooms
We now have made our way up Aoyama Dori nearly to Omotesando and we find an elevator up to Two Rooms... you are impressed by the look and feel of the bar when you enter...rich woods on the tables and bar and paintings on the walls. Most of the conversations that you will hear are in English whether spoken by a true Tokyoite (江戸っ子) or the expat bankers that come for a drink or 2. The outdoor terrace is a real treat and has views over Omotesando towards Harajuku and Shinjuku. Its also where you will find Eddie who runs the Two Rooms bar this being after he ran other popular banker night time destinations. He strike up a conversation with you and make you feel welcome even if you are 7,000 miles from home. Two Rooms does serve as a perfect spot for a nightcap on this loungy crawl or should I say stroll along Aoyama Dori.
This bar no longer exists in the location I remember it and was replaced by the people who bought the old sawdusted floored Fitzpatricks and made both spaces into one large bar. Bars are always changing name and location in NY. For instance, the Gaf had took over the space that the old classic Pedro's sat on when that bar moved uptown.. The Gaf was as small as a NYbar will get a few spaces at the bar and small tables that ringed the bar. But did have enough space for my favorite bar game ever, what we called Sand Bowling and one the best jukeboxes in its day. Since it was small it could go barely empty to crushingly crowded in a matter of minutes. The bartenders were from the old country but they were all young and trying to make a few bucks so they can pay for future further travels.
Place served either as alaunching pad for the evening or last stop before limping home or late night eats at the Viand diner ("Hey Jerkucles where's my omlette?") On school nights it was air-conditioned an oasis away from the stifling walk-ups I lived in. Crowd usually was limited to young idiot professionals like myself, a little bit older idiot professionals who used
to come to the bar when it was Pedros, and Park Avenue nannies...the nannies always had interesting stories of life on private jets, Hamptons weekends (Bridgehampton not Hampton Bays) and how their employers didn't pay attention to their kids. Whoever wrote that Nannies Diaries book certainly logged many hours at the Gaf. I have great memories of this bar
including the sweater-switch-er-roo, St Patricks Day where there were about 20 pipers packed in cranking out the Minstrel Boy, and finishing up our Mardi Gras apartment party there after we were threatened by neighbors to have the cops called on us. Gaf, I will find you again.
No comments:
Post a Comment