It had to be the smallest pool table in the world, if you don't take into account ones made for kids. The small size exaggerated actual skill as you didn't have much green to cover and sometimes unlikely shots dropped as the billiard balls had nowhere else to go. Next to the pool table that sat right-smack-dab in the middle of the bar was the jukebox which I invariably would have a few quarters pumped in to get "When the Levee Breaks" from Zepplin IV in the rotation. The jukebox also featured the greatest bargain to be found, "Mountain Jam" from Eat a Peach for 25 cents you get 30+minutes of the Allman's jamming also ire from those that were waiting for their tunes. Another feature of the bar which went largely untapped was the hot dog rotisserie. The franks on that endless merry-go-round seemed to have their own carbon half-life. I never knew of anyone to try them - no one would even mention them in a drunken dare as it would seem entirely too cruel to have someone eat something so unappetizing. The bar served pints and bottles of standard American that you could equally enjoy with the bartender at the bar or at a small table with 2 or 3 of your buddies. One item of men's room graffitti stood for years "She's Fat. I'm Drunk." -- fortunately no epilogue was written. The bar is officially called the The Southside Hotel but I know it as Artie Schiller's. It has gone through total renovation over the years so the things I loved of the place...the pool table, the jukebox and even the untried hot dog rotisserie are long gone. But this is where I choose to start my journey around the world on what I consider some of the greatest drinking establishments I've visited.
This is a great corner boteco/botequim just off of Avenida Faria Lima in an upscale section of Sao Paulo. The bar is full of small tables that can be cobbled together for large groups enjoying caipirinhas or chopps (draft beers). As the night heaves on, the bars tables all fill and many others head to a loft space above the main bar floor or find some other space to stand. There is futbol on the 4 or 5 TVs and a live band in the corner playing tunes that included Pearl Jam's "Black" that iced the deal for me that despite a great city to explore I wasn't going anywhere soon. Loved the idea of the personal "drink card" that waiters mark up when they bring another drink to you either on demand or most times they will have your next chopp ready for you just as you are finishing one without asking. I took the grid on a drink card as a challenge to mark up all boxes until I realized there were about 60 in the grid. As mentioned in an earlier edition, Gisele would look quite ordinary compared to the women you may see in SP and that would be no different from those that come to Ferraz..quite extraordinary for those not accustomed to the beautiful sights of Brazil. I know I've only scratched the surface with respect to Sao Paulo nightlife for instance, locals and expats told me that missing Skye Bar at the Hotel Unique was unthinkable, so I will be back to SP and roam that city but I know I will return to Ferraz. Mais uma Chopp. Saude.
The Burwood Tap Chicago, IL
My apartment in Chicago was somewhat like living in a flop house. The elevators were the ones you pulled a cross a gate to get in and out. The water pressure was so bad coming out of the shower that I gave up on the shower head and my showers for almost 2 years was filling pint glasses from the bath faucet and rinsing out that way. I slept (passed out) on a futon that was lumpier than bad mashed potatoes. There were unnatural smells that permeated the building. But the best part of the apartment was its location. Depending on who I talked to, my apartment was either across the street from St. Clements church or around the corner from the Burwood Tap. The Burwood Tap, named for its location on the corner of BURling and WrightWOOD, had some of the aspects that I loved of my home town fav, Artie Schiller's, it had a pool table, the great jukebox and a unique food feature, Burwood's being the popcorn machine. The popcorn, which during my lean days of being a graduate student, was sometimes my only nourishment that I'd have besides a Pop-Tart breakfast. I enjoyed some great moments in the Burwood Tap...including watching the Hoyas gloriously beat the Illini to the violent displeasure of the Chicago crowd. Also at the Burwood Tap I was subject to one of the biggest robberies in the history of bro-dom...where one of my best buddies brokered a date-switch-er-roo during the 2 minutes I spent in the Gents where I certainly ended up on the short-end of the deal. Also remembered spending a whole afternoon "studying" for the CPA exam at the back bar slowly finishing off a pitcher or two of beer while most of my buddies were making the most of a Cubs rain out on the pool table. I mostly came to the Tap on "school nights" and was lucky as the bar closed at 2am that I was right around the corner from the apartment I escaped from.
The Boarding House, is like the rest of Nantucket, best when the crowds are gone. Nantucket has a lot of great bars, Back Bar at 21 Federal, LoLa 41 (Mark Dailey could be one of the best bartenders you can find anywhere), the Westender (think its called Millies now but still makes Madaket Mysteries), the Summer House pool bar, Straight Wharf, and can't forget the Chicken Box, but the Boarding House is a preferred spot. Inside the bar if you can get a seat its a great place to stomach watching the Sox with a beer or a Dark & Stormy. The outside patio also is great place to be even in the coldness of late autumn. Crowd is always an interesting mix and has been a launching ground for after-hours fun since the Massachusetts closing time is way too early on some nights.
Yeah, yeah, I know this one isn't original and is on everyone's "Best Bars' list but when you walk in and you see a G-town pennant prominently displayed OVER the Harry's Bar sign then you know you've come home. Really the "Greatness" to me is beyond the history of a place where great drinkers such as Hemingway and Bogart saddled up or where great drinks such as the Bloody Mary was born, it has the elements of a place you can lose your self in - entering the bar early but ending up somehow leaving late There is a level of enjoyment in drinking beers served by surly jacketed servers in a bar filled with great chatter in multiple tongues. Don't get caught up that you are in Paris and should be in a cafe sipping espressos rather than in a "New York Bar" swilling lager - just enjoy yourself here as much as everyone else is.
Again, we will continue our journey of the best of the gin joints in all the towns in all the world. Also would love to hear of everyone's Greatest Bars....Cheers!
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